We have long held that the best way to understand the Independent watch world is to liken it to an artistic movement. Art has a mature ecosystem and tradition of scholarship which can help us create useful taxonomy and hierarchy. Who are the important creators? What are the important pieces? What’s next? To answer these questions, one has to have a basic framework for understanding systems of creative explosions.
The Impressionist movement in painting emerged in France during the mid to late 19th century. This period was marked by significant technological advancements in various fields, which played a crucial role in shaping the style and techniques of the Impressionist painters.
The Industrial Revolution, which began in the late 18th century and continued into the 19th century, brought about significant changes in the way people lived and worked. The growth of industries led to the development of new materials and techniques, which in turn had a profound impact on the visual arts. The introduction of synthetic dyes, for example, allowed for a broader range of colors to be used in painting, while the development of photography influenced the way artists composed their works.
Photography, in particular, played a significant role in the development of Impressionism. The invention of the camera in the early 19th century allowed artists to capture images more accurately and quickly than ever before. This new technology freed artists from the constraints of traditional composition and allowed them to experiment with new techniques, such as the use of natural light and the depiction of movement. This experimentation ultimately led to the development of Impressionism.
The Impressionists were a loosely organized group of artists who shared a common interest in capturing the fleeting sensations of light and color in their paintings. They rejected the traditional styles and techniques of the academic art establishment and instead sought to capture the world around them in a more naturalistic and spontaneous way. The Impressionists were united in their desire to capture the effects of light on the natural world, and they were heavily influenced by the advancements in optics and color theory that were being made at the time.
The Impressionists often worked together, forming groups and exhibiting their works together. The most famous of these groups was the Société Anonyme des Artistes, Peintres, Sculpteurs, Graveurs, which was founded in 1874. This group, which included artists such as Claude Monet, Edgar Degas, and Pierre-Auguste Renoir, held eight exhibitions between 1874 and 1886, which helped to establish the Impressionist style and bring it to a wider audience.
The Impressionists were also influenced by one another, and their works often reflected this. For example, the artist Edgar Degas was known for his depictions of ballet dancers, which were heavily influenced by his friendship with fellow Impressionist artist, Mary Cassatt. Similarly, Claude Monet's work was heavily influenced by the landscapes of the French countryside, which he shared with fellow Impressionist painter, Pierre-Auguste Renoir.
This pattern plays out over and over again in the history of creativity. Technical advancements, often in areas not directly related to the medium, push a group of people to experiment. These people then influence each other and a chain reaction kicks off an explosion of creativity. The invention of the camera and the advancements in optics and color theory allowed artists to experiment with new techniques and styles, which ultimately led to the emergence of Impressionism. The Impressionists formed groups and exhibited their works together, which helped to establish the movement and bring it to a wider audience. Additionally, the artists were heavily influenced by one another, and their works often reflected this.
The emergence of the internet, proliferation of CNC machines, and recovery from the quartz crisis created the conditions for the Independent Watch boom of the late 1990’s to early 2010’s. We will go into depth on the important players and milestones in a post for our paid subscribers (thank you btw!). For now, let’s look at what happens next.
The Lull
Immediately after one of these periods there is often a lull. The major figures go from upstarts to established giants. They continue to create, refining their craft, but leaving little room for newcomers. This has been the general condition of the last decade or so. But recently things are beginning to change.
The Next Generation
Inevitably, the pioneers get older and a new generation comes up, this time with the knowledge of what has come before. We’re beginning to see an explosion of this on Instagram. It is always difficult to pick out the exact players and milestones in real time, but the trend is obvious.
Akrivia may have led the charge. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometer was released just as early Journe/Dufour/Kari/RSmith values went stratospheric, cementing the important pieces of the old guard and creating space for the new.
Over the last several weeks, we’ve seen gorgeous new releases from many new watchmakers culminating with the new piece from Simon Brette that seemed to be everywhere for a week. But there are so many more we cannot even keep up, including Herve Schluechter, Luca Soprana, and of course Xhevdet Rexhepi as well as many many others
So far this new wave seems to share a few important elements. First, the watches are classically inspired. We have not yet seen the Vianney Halter or URWERK of this wave. They are mostly modestly proportioned, round watches with many classic elements. Next they are all movements that are engineered to be beautiful. Complications and chronometry are less important than wheels, bridges, and finishes that are designed to stun. To go along with this, hand finishing is at the forefront. Here is where you see a major break from Journe and similar from the last wave. Lastly, while the internet was the force multiplier that allowed the AHCI-and-friends movement to reach critical velocity, this movement is using social media. The marketing is being done primarily through prominent internet collectors. With few exceptions (ok maybe just MB&F), the last wave of Independents has done a terrible job adapting to social media. In fact, this may be the biggest driver of their relegation to the past and realization of a new future. These new creators are using the medium to get their watches out in a very effective way.
We are outsiders in this world. We have yet to handle a single one of these new wave watches and tend to find out about them just as most of you do: a friend posts a pic on Instagram. This is not meant to be an endorsement of any particular brand, or a comprehensive list of interesting new entrants. It is merely a recognition from an informed observer that the world of independent horology is heating up. We are excited to see where it goes.